The Mountaineering Section annual trip is the week after MLK in the town of Ouray when In recent years we had the park to ourselves. This year the 24th annual Ouray Ice Festival is January 24-27,which draws world class climbers for the elite competition. With the festival so late in January, we will go Jan 8-17th instead. As usual, a splendid time is guarenteed for all. This Blog will serve as a PRIMER for those who are interested in visiting the Park with us.
Monday, January 23, 2012
Day Five in the Park
After breakfast we scooted on down the road and got to the Upper Bridge area and set up WHIT's WORLD WI4 40M; BERZERKER WI5 40M;PICK O' THE VIC WI4 40m. The upper bridge area is a belay from the top section of the park into routes that are longer and begin at a harder grade. When you are lowered into the gorge, you MUST be able to climb out. The climbing today was long and sustained though we elected to climb select areas of routes that had better ice. An interesting ice formation I encountered looked like ice cubes or ice balls instead of solid blue ice. Watching some of our guys climb Berzerker was pretty impressive. We hooked up with Peter Smith and Von Slingerlund. Saif and Ross Downer had to leave to day. The remainder of the crew leaves Wednesday. More images of the daye to follow.
Sunday, January 22, 2012
Day Four in the Park
The morning after the snow storm brought a beautiful stillness to the mountain setting. Every small sound was amplified 10,000 times. The sun began to peek through the clouds around 0945 and the familiar Ouray Setting was restored: Blue Bird skies. We are climbing today in a an area known as the GRAD SCHOOL. The climbs in this area of the park are 45 meters and one must belay form the top. We climbed here a couple of years ago after a similar snow storm brought about 18 inches of the white stuff. This made for a really exhaustive day climbing ice because the ice was completely covered under about a foot of snow which meant many many pick swings before reaching ice in which to gain the safety of secure purchase. It is absolutely a beautiful day.
Saturday, January 21, 2012
Day Three in the Park
Winter has returned to the world at least in this part of the country. Each morning has been colder and colder. The winds were predicted to rip with snowfall throughout the day; so we might be careful what we wish for. We scooted on down the road this morning to set up some routes in ALCOVE. John and Christina got there early enough ( nearly missed claiming this anchor by 5 seconds!!!) to set up Camino WI3; we later were able to climb Banderlero WI4 from these anchors as well. I got there soon afterwards and set up DEAN's LIST ICE WI4 (bolt#2) and Saif set up READING WI4 (bolt #6). From this time forward the wind increased to 20-30mph and air temp was probably 35; wind chill : freezing ass cold. Around 10am the first snow flakes filled the air until it formed a horizontal slip stream in the wind. This wind-snow added to the dramatic oh-shit effect while climbing vertical ice 20-30m off the deck. Wind burned faces are the badge of honor that identified climbers here today that said, "yeah I missed watching the playoffs on TV, and I'm glad I did." John Smith setup a photography nest on a ledge and spent the day capturing images on Camino and Banderlero. Another great day of climbing ended soaking my tired muscles in the hot tub in a snow storm!!!!! Invariably we have the best eats in town at the BACKSTREET BISTRO
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Friday, January 20, 2012
Day two in the Park
The day began colder with the threat of something falling from the sky. We converged on the Scottish Gullies and dropped 4 ropes. We climbed POPSTAR WI3; SUNSCREEN WI4; BY GULLY WI2;UK GARAGE WI3. The cooler temps kept the drippy routes at bay and the sun came out and the typical blue bird Ouray sky blanketed our day. John Smith, Leah Werchick, Christina, Court, Mark Elton, Ross Downer, Saif and myself climbed until we were spent. We bagan the day a little sore from the first day and today we pressed on. Pictures are to follow..internet connection sucks.
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Day One 2012
The First day of our yearly visit to the small mining town of Ouray Colorado for a week of ice climbing presented a gloriously warm day in the 40s with hero ice that was drippy by days end. It was warn. The day started at 24 degrees and ramped up into unthinkable temps. The best parts of this beginning is we have the park to ourselves . Gone is the zoo-like atmosphere of the ice festival of week one and vacationers of MLK weekend. I climbed today with no hat, 2 pair of work gloves that I brought along, that get wet from use since they really aren't climbing gloves of breathable material, and my base layer. I wore my nano-puff but I was roasting, if you can imagine thins while ice climbing. I never broke out my guide gloves or mittens. We climbed at the school room on WI3s and WI4s just of the couch and we all looked great for thr first day. Tomorrow we'll hit the Scottish gullies and TR WI3-WI5. FK who cares it is all Top Rope (TR). should be much colder tomorrow from here on out. pictures to follow
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Tuesday, January 17, 2012
2012 Trip and a Wake UP
Tuesday January 17th and it looks like I'll have to lug my lousy lap top around. We have a great group of climbers converging from all around the country to our favorite ice destination in Ouray Colorado. The temps are going to be a little warmer than we have seen but the nights dip down in to the single digits and the teens. This should prove to be another wonderful time at the Ouray Ice Park. Stay tuned for the fun
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