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Friday, January 24, 2014
Day 4 in the Scottish Gullies
We got an earlier start this morning in anticipation of a an early weekend crowd that never really materialized. Setting up at the Scottish gullies was the typical snap. The designated anchores are marked at the yellow wands and there you find bolted anchors in the rock.....THANK YOU OURAY ICE PARK.
We set up some some nice routes and climbed all day. I climbed next to Jim Domini and his partner who loves golf and i shot a video of them climbing....they were featured in Rock and Ice having just climbving the &^%&^%&^$%^&$ up camp bird road.
Thursday, January 23, 2014
Day 3 in The Grad School
After a hearty breakfast at the backstreet Bistro we arrive at grad school. At 45 meters, This area has some of the longest routes in the park. We have an opportunity to use the refined and standardized technique of belaying from the top in guide mode and lowering with an act or similar device with an auto block demonstrated by the San Juan Mountain guide- Dawn Glanc. The crew arrives and we set up 4 lines down the into the gorge. The ice on the harder routes down stream were excellent with solid WI4 from the bottom for 10-15 meters. Lee, Scott, Todd, Joe, John, Jim and myself.
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Wednesday, January 22, 2014
Day 2 in the School Room
Day 2 in paradise was like every other day except this year we rented a car and were at the park with even less effort if that were possible. Greg Christopolus joined us this day 12 years since he last swung an ice tool; Greg is our 70 year old new addition to our crew who kick ass. Be began the day at school room and were hard pressed to beat the Korean contingent who arrive for an ice climbing course. You never met a friendlier or a more enthusiastic crowd at the park! So much fun. One thing that was different this year was the city of Ouray purchased the ice park from the USFS but still run by the Ice park personel. The city's liability insurance does;t cover manmade structures per se so the scary stair are closed off and only used for emergencies. The downside to this is we must use the heinous down climb up stream. Most people do just fine but I would have to hook something and take the plunge with all your gear down this gully. I clipped the ropes on the way down for shits and giggles....One image shows the big log jam on the down climb. The weather was beautiful. about 30ish or warmer, ice was dry and the sky was blue. What else do you want?
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Day 1 just off the couch in South Park
We arrived in Montrose January 21 and it was like any other year traveling to Ouray to climb ice, I slept all but 20 minutes of each 2.5 hour leg from Washington, DC. The plane was wheels down at at 1235pm and we grabbed our Chevy Equinox all wheel drive and were on our way. It was weird not seeing Betty or Ted Wolfe pick us up from the airport as they have done for many years becasue we stay at their hotel in Ouray-The Comfort Inn.
We made the cutomary stop at safeway in Montrose and stocked up on a few groceries and drove to Ouray, stopping off in Ridgeway to take in the sights before we checked in to the hotel. The evening was spent sorting gear and reassembling backpacks.
630am comes early when coming from the east coast and I was up a little before that. A combination of altitude, time change, dryness and strange surroundings make for a fitful sleep the next 48 hours. We meet in the breakfast room and touch base with everyon who has made it there the first day. We decided to hump it down to South Park and set up some very easy lines for our freinds new to climbing ice.We had a great day "just off the couch" and we climbed in South Park with Lee Jenkins, Ellen, John Smith, Annette, Joe, Todd, James Pasterchk & Scott Hartsock.
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