Thursday, January 31, 2013

Epilogue: A farewell until 2014 !!

We all got up on the 30th, our last day in Ouray and joined Ross Downer, Mark Elton, John Smith for an awesome breakfast at the Back Street Bistro. We took our time because in an hour and a half we were leaving for the airport. We took a little ride up to Ted and Betty's place that over looks Dexter Slabs. What a dump! Just kidding-a virtual paradise in paradise. Which brings me back to our first trip in 2010 when we climbed Dexter slabs with Oster, Lee Jenkins, Naz, John and myself. We followed a published guide and went up the wrong gully, a snowy hateful slog and then traversed un-protected across a steep frozen scree field that dropped off precipitously off a fatal embankment at least a hundred feet. Re-visit this account @ 2010 Alpine-shwalpine  Having come out to Ted & Betty's spread, I was able to deconstruct the near disaster that we experienced and scoped out a smaller ice flow seen to the right in the last image; it may or may not be a good beginner's lead.

We danced up the road and passed the huge rock that is the landmark for the Dexter slab gully, we missed it and took the more obvious gully to hell.
Dexter Slabs
There is a small ice flow right center that may or not be worth the trouble as a beginner's lead.
United Airlines Hassled us about their ski boot policy, which the published literature reads that ski boots are exempt items that can be checked for free-it was a real PITA haggling with the genius ticket counter until John taught them how to read! Also, the seats that I thoughtfully selected in December were not the seats I was assigned for the return legs. John and I both selected seats independently and we both did not get the seats we picked and this made for a miserable return trip that was twice delayed because of lousy weather back home. But we made it back safely.

Another chapter has been written in this winter chapter of ice climbing here in Ouray, Colorado for the heroes of ice that made the jump out west; those that didn't will never know until you just come  on out.  With only minor injuries and a little blood, we all walk away with great memories and intact digits from our stay in this great town. Every year is different. The same people who come at this time from all over the country don't change year after year. Ouray is more than a destination, it is a yearly reunion of friends, not necessarily club members, that return for a chance to climb together. Here is a great chance to get all sappy assed but the truth isn't far from this. I can't tell you how much climbing you can get in, no matter how many days you can come or even how warm it is predicted to be-it is a seasons worth of quality ice climbing. We climbed in MINIMAL winter regalia this year and climbed our asses off and that is a lot of ass. LOL. The conditions here change all the time, the ice, I can honestly say has never failed our trip now in its fourth season. Ouray for ice climbing has everything an ice climber could want: a good ice park that is well run, a great hospitable town, it's inhabitants and visitors whose open arms is more endearing year after year, back country climbing/skiing, alpine skiing and everything that makes the west the west, ( I mean the best). Hopefully our friends will return. Jason, Justin, Erik, Hillary, Candy, Nate, Peter, Mark, Betty, Ted, Ross, Kooko, Orlando, Send-it-Sondra, Danika, Bill, Steve, Meredeth, MAZAMAs, Anne, Joe, John, Vincent, Andy and those of youtz who came in spirit-you know who you are.

I will leave you with an image until next time we can all meet and climb ice together here in Ouray 2014!!!!


Climbing Angles



Vincent Penoso


Photo by JWSMITH ??

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